Get out there, take a photo, and join in! If you’re fortunate enough to live in an area with flowers odds are there are bees. Once you notice them they tend to be everywhere.

What a well framed photo! And yes, that’s meant as a non-risque double entendre.

For anyone wondering what I’m on about, if you have a symmetrical object with sharp lines in front of you take the time to do something with them. In this photo, OP made sure they were centered/squared to them. This makes for a very pleasing photo.

A bit late to the party but…

Before you take a photograph, think about what you’re trying to photograph. Are you trying to isolate a subject or are you trying to capture a scene? This helps you figure out where you should be focused and how much (or little) depth of field you should try to achieve. For this photograph, it seems like you’re trying to capture a scene with some flours and an interesting rock. As an added bonus, you have some pretty nice lighting going on.

After that you’re on to framing - is the camera square and level to your subject, if the background distracting can you reposition to make it less so, is there an unusual angle you can use to make your photograph a bit more unique, etc. For this photograph, I think this is the biggest area of feedback. Having focus so low in the frame is a little unusual, but it seems to work here. I don’t mind the house in the background a ton, but the pole is a bit distracting - especially because you’re not completely level/square to it. If the pole was unavoidable, I would have tried to make it perfectly vertical. Is there another place you could have stood, and/or another focal length you could have used, to capture your scene? Kneeling in situations like this can be helpful.

Finally, you’re into post. I generally like what you posted. Beyond rotating the image slightly to get the pole completely vertical, my only suggestion would be to selectively desaturate and/or decrease exposure on things you find distracting - like that pole for example. I am not talking about “photoshopping” those things out, only manipulating their colors to make them a little less visually obtrusive. You could do the same with the red house to make it contrast a bit more with the purple flowers that are directly in front of it.

OnePlus still offers this one on some of their phones.

https://dulytek.com/collections/dulytek-rosin-presses

A rosin press is a machine that uses a pair of heated plates to press with enough pressure any cannabis material, such as buds, keif, or hash, which causes the cannabinoids and terpenes to seep out in an oily form called rosin. Rosin gained popularity with its solventless yet easy extraction process.

Warping! Others have hit on a lot of this, so I’ll try to be brief.

• warping is due to the plastic shrinking as it cools. This builds tension in the lower layers of the print
• bigger prints are naturally more warp prone
• part shape and aspect ratio also plays a role. Parts with big aspect ratios (eg much wider or longer than the other axis) are more warp prone. Parts with sharp transitions are also more likely to warp
• different filaments are more warp prone than others. PLA is least prone, followed by PETG. ASA/ABD are the most warp prone I’ve printed so far
• fiddling with temps and speeds can help
• make sure you have good bed adhesion (clean bed, good first layer, etc)
• having good bed adhesion will only take you so far. I’ve had prints pull my magnetic bed plate up
• you can try printing a draft shield around your part (think a skirt as tall as your part)
• IMO eclosures are the way to go for warp prone parts. You’ll need to be somewhat careful about chamber temps getting too high (this can cause nozzle clogs for PLA/PETG) or not getting high enough (ASA/ABS will still warp in a cool chamber). My enclosure has a removable lid that I pop for PLA/PETG and has insulation/bedfans/a filter for ASA/ABS

Dish soap is better than alcohol, especially if you’re cleaning the bed in a sink with lots of water to rinse all the accumulated oils off.

To save the highlights or for the effect?

Depending when back in the day ways for you, be prepared for higher prices. On the other hand, the gear these days is great. If you’re not going to be shooting fast scenes, most bodies will do nicely. Pick up a sharp prime and you’ll be off running. From a purist shooting experience, primes are pretty freeing. A prime will also get the added bonus of primes having good optics and most of them have low night performance.

At your budget, I would suggest used gear. There’s nothing wrong with DSLRs if you won’t be shooting dynamic scenes, but mirrorless have very nice focusing algorithms these days. Coming from Nikon, I would recommend a D7x00 series body and a prime or three. If you want to go mirrorless, Sony has a very deep back catalog of glass. The A7III is still a great camera and can be had at a pretty good price on the used market, which will leave you with space for a nice lens or two.

I posted this a month ago, but it seems to apply here.

First, the best camera in the world is the one you have on you. Have an urge? Take the photo with what ya got, even if that is your phone. On the other hand, try to be more intentional about bringing your camera with you when you venture into the world. This will probably take finding the right lens and overall package size, but I bring my camera and a compact lens with me on most family activities as a result.

Second, for well lit subjects that aren’t moving much and aren’t that far away modern cellphones are generally fine. Yeah, a dedicated camera with a fast lens can create a nicer looking background if you’re simply sharing photos on the web it’s not going to matter a ton. Don’t get discouraged if this is the kind of photography you prefer.

A dedicated camera will blow a cellphone out of the water in a couple key areas. Those include:

• focus speed and control. Even with my old Nikon D40 and D5300 I feel way more confident in my ability to get focus where I want it than either my work iPhone 15 or my personal OnePlus 12. Modern mirrorless are in a league of their own, especially when you pair them with a lens that can keep up with their focusing algorithms
• the ability to capture sharp photos of things in motion thanks to more light gathering, which lets you use faster shutter speeds
• low light. I’m shooting full frame these days and with a fast lens I have no problem hand holding and taking photos of human subjects in really low light conditions
• interchangeable lenses. A long telephoto will give you way better results than a cellphone digitally zooming
• burst rates. Not all dedicated cameras have nuts frame rates, but a portion do. This makes it really easy to capture the precise moment. Yes, cellphones can do this too but since they’re sacrificing light their image quality might not be great

Four examples where I adore my gear:

1. I am the unofficial team photographer for my kids’ youth sports teams. They’re both currently doing baseball. I can sit at the end of the backstop fence, about 100 or so feet from home plate, and fill the frame with the kids batting. Thanks to high burst rates I can basically guarantee a photo of the ball hitting and just leaving the bat
2. We hang out at a lot of museums and go to night events like zoo lights. My gear lets me get great sharp photos, without blur from my family moving around, thanks to a mix of modern camera sensors being fairly low noise, fast glass, and shooting full frame
3. My older kid did a figure skating show this spring. I rented a 70-200 f/2.8 and was really impressed by the photos it was able to capture. Excellent focusing, kids filling the frame, basically no noise, tack sharp photos
4. Absolute control over exposure and a very easy shooting experience makes it a lot easier to get cool shots, like panning photos at a racetrack or even a panning shot of my kid on their bike

Happy shooting! If you have questions, make another post!

There’s also all the mess of slicer and printer settings. It would be interesting to give someone a collection of parts with different nozzle sizes, extrusion widths, pressure advance settings, temp settings, print speeds/accelerations, etc

Interesting project! I will have to give it a look.

sourcing the materials can be a bit of a challenge

Any more details here? I’m guessing the necessary material for electrolytic and what not? Do you know about the boring adjacent stuff like measuring (eg how accurate do the measurements need to be, how precise, etc), disposal, etc?

Not sure, but I would suspect that AI output would likely be very similar to procedural generation output in that it will need some massaging before it can be used as a final asset.

Procedural generation of content in games is by no means a new thing. Even if the end state isn’t completely procedurally generated, odds are a version of the asset was initially and a human touched it up as necessary. When you’re talking about large asset sets (open world and/or large maps, tons of textures, lots of weapons, etc) odds are they weren’t all 100% hand made. Could you imagine making the topology map and placing things like trees in something like RDR2?

That’s not to say all this automation is necessary a good thing. It almost feels like we’re slowly chugging through a second industrial revolution, but this time for white collar workers. I know that I tell myself that I would rather spend my time solving problems vs doing “menial” work and have written a ton of automation to remove menial work from my job. I do wonder if problem solving will become at least somewhat menial in the future.

Check the post title ;)

For ACM - like aluminium honeycomb?

ACM is more of a sandwich. Aluminum, plastic, aluminum.

I have a boring old klicky. It works very for me 🤷

Great read, with some amusing asides.

Shots fired!

We probably have the same model - the one with the big oval stand. Every once in a while I wish it was OLED and/or higher resolution, but it’s not worth the expensive or all the modern “features” such as these.

I personally am pretty happy with my 2.4, although I would suggest skipping the cable chains and going to an umbilical. I went the nitehawk route. If you’re going to be printing ASA or ABS add an under bed carbon filter and bedfans. I would also suggest skipping to ACM panels if you plan on big ASA/ABS prints.

If you dig through my comments you can see me talking about it. Mechanical bed leveling, that actually squares the gantary to the bed, and Z calibration make for very consistent first layers.

$1,200 is Voron and RatRig territory. Vorons cap out at 350 mm³ for build volume and 500mm³ rat rigs are $1,550. I agree that plenty of folks are probably over buy on printers, but if you want this kind of build volume the price seems reasonable - especially for a printer that ships assembled. Personally, I went the Voron route and if I wanted a larger printer I would probably either just make my 350mm taller or go the RatRig route.

That said, high velocity on a large format printer isn’t that useful for big prints IMO. You’re probably going be running a bigger nozzle and laying down wide/tall extrusions, which means you’re probably going to be limited by how fast your extruder can melt plastic. That’s the case on my Voron with a Rapido HF with “only” a 0.6mm nozzle, 0.8mm extrusion widths, and 0.3mm layer heights.

Not OP, but wanted to chime in.

I get the sentiment Some Gen Xers did grow up with home computers. However, I suspect those people are outliers due to both the cost and general user friendlyness. In the late 90s it seemed like everyone had a home computer, even the normies. This let their kids grow up messing around

It almost seems like we’re heading back in this direction, where normies have moved on to phones and tablets because they “just work”. I don’t think the average kid will grow up as immersed in computers as I did unless their parents are intentionally about making that introduction. I bought my kid a used Thinkpad for Christmas last year. Most of his peers have tablets or just stick to their smartphone.